As much a fascinating study of heirloom cider apples and Buckeye chickens as it is a commentary on the way politics, money and convenience have conspired against America’s culinary history ... This isn’t a book to pick up for its lyrical narrative. (One can wade through only so many descriptions of rental car trips and bad weather.) Still, the deep cultural and political history Lohman unearths is worth the ride.
Lohman’s commentary is engaging, and she elegantly relays anecdotes (catching salmon by hand; harvesting sheep) that capture the respectfulness and passion of the individuals she met while researching. Her descriptions of unprecedented textures, tangs, and mouthwatering subtleties are masterful. Not just for foodies, this is an entertaining and enlightening account.
