Mr. Alexander is an admirably thorough researcher ... This groundwork allows him to bring us deeply into [his subjects'] worlds, probing their motivations, backgrounds, flaws and virtues, writing with authority not just about public perceptions but also about private moments ... The book is not without its flaws. Some of the author’s profile choices seem arbitrary (he acknowledges leaving out many of the prime movers of the period because they’ve been much written about elsewhere), and, taken together, the portraits never quite cohere into a master story of the period ... Also, while Mr. Alexander’s energetic prose drives the book steadily along through its many disparate parts, it also partakes of the excesses that seem endemic to much online journalism ... Despite such infelicities, the book provides an entertaining and informative picture of the American restaurant scene over the past dozen years. Just dipping in and out of it pretty much guarantees learning something new.
Alexander has visited with eminent chefs such as Tom Colicchio in New York and Gabriel Rucker in Portland, Oregon, who have each transformed what defines a successful restaurant ... in his first book, Alexander shows all sides of chefs who’ve transformed the American dining landscape.
... well-researched, witty ... Alexander’s sharp wit keeps the narrative moving ... This astute reflection on an era of American food culture will give foodies a new perspective on the restaurants they love and the dining experiences they’ve grown to expect.
... an energetic, scattered chronicle ... Alexander’s choice of characters seems random, and their stories, though engaging, don’t cohere into an overarching analysis. Initially claiming that the revolution is over, the author concludes that 'a fresh torch' is likely to be lit ... A colorful yet rambling history of transformations in the food world.
