RaveThe Chicago ReaderAlthough surfing culture has long been dominated by men and tends to attract showboats, this contemplative book is hardly a trophy case of macho conquests ... [Finnegan] carefully mines his surfing exploits for broader, hard-won insights on his childhood, his most intense friendships and romances, his political education, his career. He's always attuned to his surroundings, and his reflections are often tinged with self-effacing wit.
