RaveThe Boston GlobeSurfing is the backbone of the book, but Finnegan’s relationships to people, not waves, form its flesh. He is witty about the bullies at his Hawaiian junior high. He writes well about his girlfriends, forever waiting on shore. He dwells wonderfully on the daily tug between family and getting out on the water. But he is most interesting when he writes, as he does in depth, about his surfing buddies.
